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The Real School Food Project

by Chef Ann Foundation
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
The Real School Food Project
Two students enjoy Lummi Island Wild Salmon Cakes
Two students enjoy Lummi Island Wild Salmon Cakes

For Patrick Durgan, a focus on scratch-cooking practically came with the job. Soon after being appointed Director of Food Services and Executive Chef at Bellingham Public Schools (BPS) in Washington, Durgan jumped feet-first into Chef Ann Foundation’s Get Schools Cooking (GSC) grant program, a 3-year intensive dedicated to transitioning schools to scratch-cooking.

 

Durgan traveled to Boulder, CO where the Foundation is based, to join the 2017 GSC cohort for the program workshop March 16-17, 2017. This 3-day kick-off focuses on everything school districts need to know to start scratch-cooking, from procurement to accounting.

 

For Director Durgan, it was hugely beneficial to hear insights and gain perspective from experienced players in the school food movement, like Beth Collins and Chef Ann Cooper.

 

“It was great to have Ann to say, ‘Yeah, you can expect that,’ or ‘This is where you should be,’” he shared. "What I took away from it is that [implementing scratch cooking] is really hard.”

 

Through the GSC training, Director Durgan learned how to grab easy wins in the transition and about inevitable challenges he would face. For example, when cafeterias remove the high-fat, high-sugar foods that kids love, there can be a dip in participation, he explained, but once schools refine new recipes using student feedback, the system begins to work.

 

In his own words, simply put, "This isn't going to happen overnight."

 

The Work Begins

Transitioning to a scratch cooking model takes effort and time. Get Schools Cooking is a three year program, and, by next school year, cafeterias in the Bellingham, Washington district will be scratch cooking up to 30% of the food served to kids.

 

BPS is also shifting to a centralized production model—the model that Chef Ann recommends most often. The centralized model fits BPS’ need to streamline processes and production. The district originally used four production sites, each with different storage, infrastructure, and cooking capacity. The district has since reduced its production sites to three, but the central kitchen will undoubtedly be a game-changer.

 

"I think a lot of what we were doing was waiting … for the central kitchen to be built. We didn't have the infrastructure to jump into scratch cooking development."

 

Rather than wait until the kitchen is complete, Director Durgan has spent much of the last two years setting the stage for the major changes to come. His marketing efforts have centered on engaging the community around the new food system and implementing small changes, a few at a time, to get kids on board.

 

Thinking Local Food

"As we started changing our infrastructure and our menus a little bit, we learned it didn't work to change the menu drastically for kids,” Director Durgan explained.

 

Prior to its scratch cooking transition, the Bellingham school kitchens served pre-formed chicken breasts, which were processed but consistent portion sizes. Once the district began partnering with local farms, they could offer local chicken breast but now struggled with maintaining portions. In order to continue serving a similar chicken dish without the challenge of uneven portions, Director Durgan oversaw the transition to using pulled chicken in recipes.

 

Pulled chicken began replacing the pre-formed patties in dishes like chicken tacos or barbecue chicken sandwiches. Director Durgan explained that this meant “once we got into scratch production, kids wouldn't see a lot of change.”

 

Additionally, BPS is committed to supporting the local food economy, which means selecting ingredients from local farmers when possible. Next year, BPS will add salmon cakes to the mix, supporting local fishermen and using wild salmon from the nearby Puget Sound.

 

“When we can put a face to a carrot or a piece of broccoli, we can convince kids to try it. Plus it's fresher!” Durgan remarked.

 

The Road Ahead

Overall, Director Durgan says the community is enthusiastic about the improvements to school food.

 

About 33% of students in BPS qualify for free or reduced lunch, and about 18% of students pay for school lunch. Director Durgan expects to see the latter number rise as the district transitions more and more to healthy, scratch cooking— just as participation increased when they introduced salad bars two years ago.

 

"Since we've started making some of these changes, starting some of our scratch recipe testing and getting that out to kids… the response has been positive,” he said. "Kids are really savvy. They know what foods they like. Every kid in our district knows what quinoa is."

 

Quinoa, really? Yes, BPS has been partnering with food education groups for seven years now. From these programs, kids learn to take “adventure bites” and “not yuck someone’s yum.” Director Durgan noted that having this food education piece has been critical to gaining traction.

 

“If we can start food education at a young age and fight the stigma about who eats what, [we’ll] be able to share differences over food, [which] is a really important thing globally. No matter who we are or where we come from, we need food,” Director Durgan said.

 

As BPS experienced, school food change can take time—but with hard work and perseverance, big results centered on healthy fresh food can happen.

 

For more information on the Chef Ann Foundation’s Get Schools Cooking program, click here. Grant applications will re-open this August—stay connected via Facebook, TwitterInstagram and our newsletters to ensure you don’t miss out!

Sampler of Bluebird Grain farro salad
Sampler of Bluebird Grain farro salad
visioning board to plan out menu options
visioning board to plan out menu options

It’s hard not to hear the excitement and enthusiasm in Donna Loden’s voice as she describes her work with Growing Healthy Waves and Tupelo Public School District (TPSD) in Tupelo, Mississippi.

“I’m really tenacious; once I lock onto a project and I’m passionate about something, I’m all in!” she professes.

Loden is a retired teacher from TPSD and a volunteer at Growing Healthy Waves, an initiative of the district dedicated to increasing children’s exposure to fresh fruits and vegetables. She is the pioneer behind the Project Produce and Salad Bars to Schools grants the Chef Ann Foundation awarded to the district in August 2016 and April 2017, respectively.

“When we got the salad bar funded, I got an email back from the Chef Ann Foundation on a Wednesday night, and I just let this scream go!” she recalls. “It was just a perfect circle; a circle of food.”

Since implementing these momentous changes in TPSD, Loden says the cafeteria culture has completely shifted. Five years ago, she says, the buzz word at school was always “nasty” in regards to vegetables.

When the district first started making these changes, adding salad bars and doing taste tests in schools, administrators released a survey to see if children’s attitudes towards fresh fruits and veggies had changed. Kids were asked to rate a piece of produce with one of the following statements: “Don’t like it,” “It’s okay,” “Like it,” or “Never tried it.” Loden remembers specifically how a group of third graders added a new category to the survey: “LOVE IT!”

“That spoke to me,” she says, “how a salad bar can affect children’s attitudes toward vegetables—having that emphasis on being able to provide them foods that they might not get at home.”

These days, children in TPSD can look forward to a garden tower, learning about hydroponics (a method of growing plants without soil using mineral nutrients in a water solvent) and finding new ways to incorporate growing vegetables. They’re even able to plant seeds in the district’s greenhouse.

“That was kind of amazing to a lot of kids; they had never planted a seed before. It’s a shame we live in one of the most fertile states in the nation, and there are a lot of kids that really do not know where their food comes from,” Loden says.

All of these educational pieces, along with the implementation of salad bars and nutrition awareness, have helped shape the state of TPSD’s school food system to date.

“It’s just fun to think of ways to get kids excited about what should rightfully be theirs anyway,” Loden says. “Chef Ann has been a part of that. I just have to give credit due to the people who have definitely helped us along the way.”

Interested in learning more about our grant opportunities? Click to get the scoop on the Project Produce and Salad Bars to Schools grants mentioned here.

 

Marblehead Community Charter Public School (MCCPS) has been serving children in the Boston area for about 24 years, and has always had a salad bar. So what makes their participation in the Salad Bars to Schools program so special?

District Size: 230 students

Number of Schools in District: 1

Free/Reduced Rate: less than 10%

District Average Daily Participation: 48%

Not all salad bars are created equal, and time truly ages them. Up until last summer, MCPCS was not part of the SB2S program, but they did have their own salad bar. When Marblehead received their new salad bar from SB2S last summer, Food Service Director and Chef Laura Wood recalls that there was a seventh grade summer camp taking place at the school.

“The kids who were at school for the camp just stared at the new salad bar, admiring it,” Chef Wood says. “No one realized how old the previous bar was until we got the new one from SB2S.” She describes their old salad bar as outdated and unusable.

Chef Laura Wood has been working at Marblehead as the Food Service Director for 10 years, and her passion for fueling students is strong. Although her official title is Food Service Director, she also works as a chef, helping cook every day at the school. Chef Wood holds a culinary degree with a fine dining background, which explains why she prefers to run her kitchen more like a restaurant than a cafeteria and places emphasis on healthy choices on and off the salad bar.

Chef Wood prides herself on the strong longevity of her school food staff. She hires employees who express a passion for cooking or who have cooking experience, and she feels that this has benefited the day-to-day operations of the salad bar. They call themselves “Not Your Average Lunch Ladies.” Between Chef Wood and her kitchen manager, she feels that there are understood expectations that their staff abide by, like keeping the kitchen a low waste space. One way they keep their kitchen a low waste space is by encouraging students to take only as much as they will eat from the salad bar.

At MCCPS, participation at the salad bar is very popular among students and within the local community. Parents are always invited to visit for lunch, and there are many regulars who say that the MCCPSS cafe is the best deal in town. In order to ensure that the salad bar stays popular with students, Chef Wood meets with each grade to review the breakfast and lunch protocol with the kids at the beginning of each year. She always reminds students that the salad bar is an opportunity for them to branch out and try new things.

To keep their salad bar fresh, MCCPS serves produce on their salad bar from their 3 school gardens—that is, when the woodchucks haven’t eaten it all. “We had a family of woodchucks living near the garden, four of them. They ate everything in the garden besides the arugula. They got so fat they couldn’t fit under the deck anymore,” says Chef Wood. Despite the invasive woodchucks, and with the help of a dedicated food service team, the salad bar and cafe at MCCPS are a huge success.

Roasted chickpeas and fresh pomegranates are items you probably don’t expect to see in an ordinary school cafeteria. But luckily for the students at Vista Unified School District (VUSD) in Oceanside, California, Director of Child Nutrition Services Jamie Phillips is not interested in creating an ordinary school cafeteria experience.

District Enrollment: 21,500

Number of Schools in District: 26

Free and Reduced rate: 64%

District ADP (Average Daily Participation): 53%

Director Phillips and his team at VUSD are salad bar experts, with seemingly endless events and strategies to keep their bars relevant and healthy. One of their most engaging events, “Fear Factor,” includes a booth set up with the help of parent volunteers that offers students tastings of unique, fresh foods that will later be incorporated into the salad bar, like roasted chickpeas and local pomegranates. If students can guess what foods they tried, they earn an “I Conquered the Fear Factor” sticker. Director Phillips says that when they host these events, “kids get engaged with trying new things, and then they see them on the salad bar and are familiar with them.” 

Along with the “Fear Factor” events, Director Phillips continues to engage the school community by incorporating tons of locally sourced produce into their bars. Proud of their commitment to local farmers, last year alone the district procured 78,000 lbs of fresh produce exclusively from California. Currently, the district is in the process of creating a large banner with the state of California on it that will have markers to show the location of each farm that provides produce to the district. Director Phillips believes that the students are more excited about eating off the salad bar when they have a visual of where the produce came from, and this banner will be a testament to the locality of VSDU’s procurement. 

This commitment to local produce and engaging students continues to have a significant impact on VUSD’s salad bar program. Phillips admits that he can be “a little competitive” and does want to be a leader in certain areas of school food. This explains why VUSD is hiring a part-time driver and purchasing a truck to deliver fresh produce to all school sites, as local farmers cannot always deliver to so many locations. For Director Phillips, having produce in the schools without chemicals and waxes is worth the extra labor, and we couldn’t agree more!

Along with the procurement of California produce, VUSD has found a way to get even more local by incorporating produce grown in their school gardens into the salad bars. One of Phillip’s favorite memories regarding salad bars at VUSD is when he worked with a K-6 teacher who taught Aeroponics, or the growing of plants without the use of soil. Phillips recalls students in the class cutting and washing the lettuce they grew, then watching its incorporation into the salad bar. He says the kids were very enthusiastic about heading to lunch knowing that they’d get to consume the fruits (or in this case, lettuces) of their labors off their school salad bars.

With a little commitment and creativity, Vista Unified School District is bridging the gap between students and their food sources, resulting in more successes at the salad bar.

Links:

Dear CAF Supporter,
I hope this finds you well and enjoying summer. We are quite busy at the Chef Ann Foundation and because you are a supporter and advocate for healthy children, we want to share our achievements, programming developments and impact opportunities with you in the attached Q2 Impact Report.
Here are some recent quotes from our grantees:

Shannon Williams, Food Service Director of Ouray School District is a frequent Lunch Box user who provided this feedback: “...armed with your recipes and menu cycles, we increased our student participation by 35%! I also started a Farm to School program this year and am working on a Reducing Food Waste Program. Thank you for providing this AMAZING resource. Your work is greatly appreciated!”

Watertown Public Schools in MA, part of the Get Schools Cooking cohort, shifted spending to more fresh fruits and veggies and eliminated all ice cream, frozen desserts and processed beef. To add more scratch cooked recipes, they introduced whole muscle chicken, a locally procured pizza crust and fish tacos.  

Thank you for helping ensure every child has access to healthy food every day. 
Chef Ann Foundation Team

Attachments:
 

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Organization Information

Chef Ann Foundation

Location: Boulder, CO - USA
Website:
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Twitter: @ChefAnnFnd?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoo
Project Leader:
Ann Cooper
President
Boulder, Colorado United States
$57,569 raised of $75,000 goal
 
2,283 donations
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