On the last GlobalGiving Bonus Day, we were asking our GlobalGiving donors to help fund our very first drum carder for our Huillloc spinning cooperative. We are excited to report that after your generous donations, we were finally able to purchase this valuable machine.
A drum carder combs raw textile fibers to make it easier to spin them into yarn. To learn more about why Awamaki’s first drum carder was such an important purchase, I sat down with our head designer and self-proclaimed “wool nerd”, Kate Mitchell.
“This is the obvious next step in our efforts to improve quality control,” explained Kate. There are two major challenges when turning natural alpaca fiber into high-quality yarn: getting the sheared fibers clean, and getting the colors consistent. The spinners have been having problems thoroughly cleaning their fibers, and some of their finished products still have bits of grass in them. Likewise, they have been having issues with color consistency too. The drum carder is helping solve these problems.
Washing the fiber in soap and warm water helps get the dirt out, but other stuff like grass has to be picked out by hand. “The drum carder combs through the fibers and makes it easier to separate out these impurities,” according to Kate.
In the below photo, you can see cardered vs. uncardered black alpaca wool fiber. Cardered fiber results in higher quality yarn because the combing aligns the fibers, making it easier to spin.
A drum carder will also allow the spinners to create more consistent colors in their yarns. In Peru, there are 52 official shades of natural alpaca. Awamaki spinners make 4 of these shades in wholesale yarn. Kate explains that the trouble is, a single alpaca may have three or four different shades of fiber in their coat. As the carder combs through the natural material, it mixes and blends fibers to create a more consistent yarn color.
This process works the same for dyed fibers. One batch of natural dye may produce several different colors on the raw fibers, as demonstrated in the photo below. When this batch is combed through the drum carder, the different shades that occur naturally will be blended together, resulting in a more consistent color throughout the resulting yarn. Additionally, we can also hand-pick different colors we choose to blend in the drum carder. This gives the women a wider color palette to work with for our yarns and finished products.
As you can see in the pictures of pink yarn, when fiber from a single alpaca is dyed at the same time in the same batch, the resulting color isn’t always even throughout the fiber. Putting this through a drum carder will blend the different shades together to produce a consistent color throughout the resulting yarn.
Our new drum carder will also save our artisans a lot of time. Kate explains that the amount of alpaca fiber that used to take an hour to clean now can be cleaned in 10 minutes. This massive time-saver allows for an increase in production, taking us one step closer to our goal of adding a line of yarns available to our wholesale customers.
We’re excited about the new drum carder, but no new change in production is without its challenges. The drum carder is currently being kept in Awamaki’s office in Ollantaytambo. We hope to soon get it out to our Huilloc cooperative where it will be much more accessible to our women artisans, but first we are working with the women to help them come up with a plan for where to keep it. It is possible that it may travel from house to house, but this is not ideal due to the size and weight of the machine. Eventually the women in Huilloc will build their own crafts center, but we are working on finding a safe, permanent home for the equipment until they have their own central space.
The Awamaki team sends a huge THANK YOU to everyone who helped us achieve our goal of purchasing a drum carder. We’re working hard to make sure the women with whom we work have the tools and training they need to make high quality products, and we appreciate your help along the way!
What do you get when you combine leftover alpaca fibers and soap?
Felted soap bars!
The women of the Huilloc spinning cooperative frequently have leftover alpaca fibers that are too short to spin. For several years, they made these fibers into felt for authentic felted soap.
But two years ago, our natural soap source dried up, and we haven't been able to find another. Until now!
The spinners of Huilloc saw a business opportunity through a partnership with Munay Tika, a company based in Cusco that produces natural and biodegradable hygiene products. Munay Tika emphasizes the importance of high quality and reliability in its products and looks for the same values in its partners, making an alliance with Awamaki a perfect fit.
Now, the Huilloc women have begun felting to Munay Tika’s bar soap. This layer of alpaca fleece, which is both functional and decorative, completely covers the bar and serves as an excellent exfoliant when the wet soap is rubbed on the skin. It’s not just for home, though—felted soap is ideal for travelers because the alpaca fur dries completely after use. This eliminates the need for a soap holder to avoid the residue that bar soap often leaves behind in your travel caddy. Extra bonus: a built-in loofah!
Awamaki's first soap product was a small hand soap felted with alpaca fibers in a blend of natural colors. The new bars are a larger, spa-sized bar, and the women have experimeted with decorating the soaps using the alpaca fibers.
The soap designs include flowers and mountains as well as the more traditional blend of different colored alpaca fiber. What inspired the designs, we asked?
"We just look around us," said Victoria, the president of the group.
Happy Bonus Day from Awamaki!
This Bonus Day, we want you to meet Laura and Meghan, two of Awamaki’s talented resident designer interns who have been hard at work with our seamstresses updating one of our new products.
Laura and Meghan have spent the last two weeks working on redesigning the clutch. After listening to our customers’ feedback, our designers realized that a few things needed to be changed. Among other issues, the leather finishes were difficult to align, so the top of the clutch was coming out crooked.
Rather than making a new product from scratch, Meghan said, “This was problem solving!”
In order to make the best product possible, they crafted several samples and used them to come up with ways to solve the problems and update the design with more modern textiles. “You realize that once you change one problem, it can lead to others,”Laura explained. The fashion student used her expertise as a seamstress to improve the bag’s overall quality.
Once they discovered the best design, they made suggestions to improve the order in which the pieces were put together in order to to streamline production. Last week, they sat down with our seamstresses to teach them how to make the entire clutch. To improve quality, they also taught the seamstresses a new technique. Laura and Meghan worked with Justa and Estela to teach them how to properly work with leather using leather glue and hammer. New to working with leather, Justa and Estela were excited about learning a new skill that they can apply to other products as well.
“This new technique makes the work come out so much better,” Estela told us. “I can use this for the Ivy Bag too, and other new products we are making.”
Your contributions enable us to fund the trainings that we do with the seamstresses so they can continue to refine their skills. This Bonus Day, please consider supporting their ongoing skills and design development with the artisans at Awamaki, and your donation will be matched by GlobalGiving to multiply your impact!
With your help, we have had a great year at Awamaki, and we couldn't have done it without you.
We now count 24 international retail partners carrying the women's products, up from nine last year. We have sold $110,000 of artisan products, up from $87,000 last year. We have put $120,000 directly in the hands of women, through our artisan products sales and our tourism program.
Ever wonder what all this means on the ground?
It means that 96% of the women in our programs report that their income has increased with our program.
46% spend the extra income on education, including school supplies, fees, or room and board for children at university.
38% use their extra earnings to save.
80% eat more meat and vegetables than they did before working with us.
78% feel more confident to participate in decision-making processes within their cooperatives, communities or households. How do we know? Women say:
"I have a stronger position in the community through my connection to other women."
"I am not afraid to speak up anymore."
"I can work and earn my own money."
"I am more disciplined in my life."
"Now I interact more with people from outside my community."
"Our group meetings help us communicate at a higher level."
This means empowerment that few women in these communities have ever experienced. It also means real changes in households. Women report their husbands helping spin wool, take care of kids, and even cook lunch, the main meal of the day, when they have an order to finish.
You are making these changes possible, and for that we want to say thank you. Next year, our goal is to teach the groups to manage their own order production, financial management and quality control. We don't want them to depend on anyone--not even us--to run their own businesses and earn a livelihood for themselves and their families.
We hope you will donate today to keep investing in the lives and empowerment of these women, and the futures of their children and their communities. Thank you and have a great New Year!
For this project report, we want to do something a little different. We want you to meet Martha, our newest staff member.
We met Martha when we started working with our second knitting group, the Rumira group. Martha was a great knitter and the treasurer of the group. She was really impressive: responsible, smart, and a great knitter.
So we offered her a job! This year, we added our seventh artisan group, and our production coordinator needed help. We brought Martha on board in May to help create products and manage the groups.
Martha is our first local in-house designer. As a skilled knitter, she creates new products, adjusts patterns, and spends lots and lots of time teaching the knitters how to make beautiful knitwear. She is the final word on quality control, and our business relies on her precise and consistent eye. She works with our international staff to understand trends, marketability and quality standards in the U.S.
Martha is a great knitter, but hadn't had much experience using a computer before--something we do a lot of at the office! After three months of training, though, she was picking it up fast. She now uses excel, word and email regularly. She is also proving herself a natural leader. She manages both of our knitting cooperatives and the spinners, and she is guiding them through our empowerment and business management trainings.
When we asked Martha what empowerment means to her, she answered that for her, this means the ability to make your own decisions in lfe, instead of being dominated by your husband, and to have a feeling of control over your own life. She says,
"When I first started earning money with Awamaki, I was able to make more decisions about how we spend money in my house. Now, working for Awamaki, I feel more secure, and I can express my ideas and make decisions based on my own feelings...When I look at my fellow knitters from Rumira, I see these changes in their homes also."
Martha says that in Rumira, the women don't talk a lot about these issues. But as a leader and an Awamaki coordinator, she wants to change that. She doesn't feel like she has enough experience yet to give these trainings, but she is excited to be learning alongside other Awamaki staff.
She got a chance to practice the other day at our first "Fair Trade and Empowerment Workshop." Martha went along to observe, but of course ended up translating, clarifying, and helping where she could. We are so lucky to have Martha as part of our team and a great example to rural women in the Sacred Valley!
P.S. We are so grateful to you, our supporters, for helping us offer economic opportunities to rural women like Marta and her knitting neighbors. We wish we could invite you for a cup of coca tea and host you for a visit, but we know that many of you live very far away. So, we made a video to invite you for a virtual visit and tell you how grateful we are for your support!
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